We spent the weekend exploring Udaipur, watched the sunset from the spectacular Monsoon Palace ruin atop a lofty peak and treated ourselves to custom-made shirts, miniature paintings depicting folk traditions and Pashmina Kashmir scarves.
Udaipur's narrow streets, built for horses and carts in the 1500's, like every town we have visited so far, is congested with motorcycles, jockeying for the fastest passage through the throngs of pedestrians, cows, dogs, vans, tuk-tuks and hand-pushed carts. Industry is mixed with retail, much of it confined to 2m by 6m stalls with sliding doors that can be secured at night. I look into one of the stalls and I see a man covered in soot, turning a hand blower directed beneath a glowing bed of coals on which is the bottom part of a grey, brass water jug, the type that can be easily carried on the top of a head; a very common sight in all parts of India, were people carry water back to their homes from public taps. The man deftly hammers the rim until it is wide enough to accept the upper portion, with the aid of the coals, he fluxes and brazes the two halves together. A second person turns a cooled pot over, mixes sand with water, then with bare hands, scours the surface of the pot, revealing brass with streaks of copper. The pot will then be polished to complete the work. Here is a samosa vendor, with shot of typical retail stalls behind.
There are stalls containing iron works, rugs, tailors, fast food deep fried in cauldrons, shoe manufacturing - India is quite literally, a blur of commerce where, lacking a social safety net, everyone must sell, make, clean, etc, in order to feed themselves and their family. A shop owner tells me that he sells his items on EBay and a hotel owner says a representative from the Timberland line of apparel has been securing manufacturing contracts for their overseas market.
With memories of Udaipur, we returned to the Raj Mahal Bhinder, some of us have stomach upsets and colds but we put in a valiant days work at the site. The wall is nearing completion, with the final rocks being mortared into place. We shifted our resources to prying rocks out of the ground and carrying them to the site of a second wall, used for slowing the monsoon torrent before it arrives at the main mortared wall. This secondary wall consists of large boulders in the base and flat angular pieces of shale-like rock placed around them. This wall will only be 2m high, but sufficient to do it's job. There will be another mortar wall built further down the gully after we leave.
The weather is steadily becoming warmer, in the 30C range, with bright sun in a smoky blue sky and light breeze.
Cam Grant
DW Team Leader
Monday, March 7, 2011
Wednesday, March 2, 2011
February 2011: Visited two completed DWC projects
On Friday we visited a climatic monitoring project and the sites of two other completed DWC funded projects before returning to Udaipur. As revealed in all projects so far, the farmers who are involved, double their incomes, learn new agricultural practices and become self-sufficient in only 3+ years. There is an oasis on the up-valley side of each water catchment wall, recharged wells and a much deeper understanding by self-help farmers of how climate and groundwater affect their agricultural production.
Next we are off to visit a very small village and have tea with the residents.
Cam Grant
DWC Team Leader
Next we are off to visit a very small village and have tea with the residents.
Cam Grant
DWC Team Leader
February 2011: Getting into a routine
We arrived at the site to find that the first layer was nearing completion. Room was made for larger rocks by means of a temporary long stone ramp built against the foundation. The mortar crew was kept busy by a line of women carrying mortar on their heads right to where it was needed; the same with the rock crew.
Some of the volunteers returned to Bhinder to resume testing and issuing eyeglasses. Eventually both teams met in a home that a farmer graciously offered for the eyesight testing.
The work days are becoming more routine as we grow to expect what our duties will be on the project site. Tomorrow we work throughout the day then return to Udaipur and the Jaiwana Haveli.
Cam Grant
DWC Team Leader
Some of the volunteers returned to Bhinder to resume testing and issuing eyeglasses. Eventually both teams met in a home that a farmer graciously offered for the eyesight testing.
The work days are becoming more routine as we grow to expect what our duties will be on the project site. Tomorrow we work throughout the day then return to Udaipur and the Jaiwana Haveli.
Cam Grant
DWC Team Leader
February 2011: Hard work and a cultural celebration
A bright, sunny day with temperatures in the high 20s. We arrived at the the site and started work right away. The engineer directs the overall building of the rock and mortar water retention structure so that it will be strong enough to withstand heavy monsoon water, and last many years.
This particular location is a slight constriction in the gully so that water and sediment will accumulate behind the structure, causing the entire up-slope side to fill in with rich fertile soil over one or two decades, eventually creating an oasis of arable land, as well as feeding the water table, as demonstrated in the 10-year old structures we saw yesterday. As you can see from the photo, the transformation fro unstable land to verdant farm is striking; notice the structure between each hill in the center of the photograph, and the sealer structure on the lower left.
Men generally pry up large metamorphic rocks out of the earth around the structure, breaking them in to smaller pieces to fill in the voids around the larger rocks that are placed in the wall. Women and men carry the smaller rocks to the structure, mix cement and sand to make mortar, carry water from the wet oasis 500 M away, while the engineer directs placement of materials.
The work is hot, and we are each learning to carry rock, water and pans of mortar on our heads, which is more efficient than carrying heavy objects with our hands in front of us, saving strain on our backs. We all immediately feel our backs assuming an upright posture, allowing fluid movement of legs, and yes, it is possible to look in front of you, while caring a pan of mortar on top of your head, without spilling a drop.
Cathy and John Greven left the group mid-day with Sharon and Kathy to meet adults at the community school who had vision difficulties. They had brought batches of new, donated reading glasses, separated by strength, then with an eye chart that had universal symbols, determined which eyeglasses were needed, and issued a pair to correct close-up vision. They also brought several eyeglasses that could be adjusted to correct myopia by increasing or decreasing diopter with a a simple liquid silicone syringe; once the refraction was correct, the syringe tube could be permanently clamped and removed. Several villagers had their vision corrected as a result, which proved to be emotional for everyone involved.
The volunteers that were at the water retention structure left the project at noon, and rendezvoused with the eyeglasses volunteers so they could see the results of the eyeglasses team. We then had lunch, prepared for the cultural evening and walked through the Bhinder streets looking for local treasures.
The cultural evening was amazing: we arrived at the village meeting place in total darkness, greeted by more than 100 hundred villagers, many wearing brown blankets to protect them from the chilly night air.
We removed our shoes and sat down on opened rice bags spread over the smooth concrete of the area, then the real fun began. The local amateur musicians, with a four stringed instrument, drums and hand cymbals, sang ancient songs, a man danced, several small groups of children sang, while between each of their presentations, the volunteers scrambled to sing songs for them, including "this land is your land, this land is my land".
Tea was served, many smiles were shared, and once again we were immersed in the World community, not Canadian or Indian, but part of the World community.
Cam Grant
DWC Team Leader
This particular location is a slight constriction in the gully so that water and sediment will accumulate behind the structure, causing the entire up-slope side to fill in with rich fertile soil over one or two decades, eventually creating an oasis of arable land, as well as feeding the water table, as demonstrated in the 10-year old structures we saw yesterday. As you can see from the photo, the transformation fro unstable land to verdant farm is striking; notice the structure between each hill in the center of the photograph, and the sealer structure on the lower left.
Men generally pry up large metamorphic rocks out of the earth around the structure, breaking them in to smaller pieces to fill in the voids around the larger rocks that are placed in the wall. Women and men carry the smaller rocks to the structure, mix cement and sand to make mortar, carry water from the wet oasis 500 M away, while the engineer directs placement of materials.
The work is hot, and we are each learning to carry rock, water and pans of mortar on our heads, which is more efficient than carrying heavy objects with our hands in front of us, saving strain on our backs. We all immediately feel our backs assuming an upright posture, allowing fluid movement of legs, and yes, it is possible to look in front of you, while caring a pan of mortar on top of your head, without spilling a drop.
Cathy and John Greven left the group mid-day with Sharon and Kathy to meet adults at the community school who had vision difficulties. They had brought batches of new, donated reading glasses, separated by strength, then with an eye chart that had universal symbols, determined which eyeglasses were needed, and issued a pair to correct close-up vision. They also brought several eyeglasses that could be adjusted to correct myopia by increasing or decreasing diopter with a a simple liquid silicone syringe; once the refraction was correct, the syringe tube could be permanently clamped and removed. Several villagers had their vision corrected as a result, which proved to be emotional for everyone involved.
The volunteers that were at the water retention structure left the project at noon, and rendezvoused with the eyeglasses volunteers so they could see the results of the eyeglasses team. We then had lunch, prepared for the cultural evening and walked through the Bhinder streets looking for local treasures.
The cultural evening was amazing: we arrived at the village meeting place in total darkness, greeted by more than 100 hundred villagers, many wearing brown blankets to protect them from the chilly night air.
We removed our shoes and sat down on opened rice bags spread over the smooth concrete of the area, then the real fun began. The local amateur musicians, with a four stringed instrument, drums and hand cymbals, sang ancient songs, a man danced, several small groups of children sang, while between each of their presentations, the volunteers scrambled to sing songs for them, including "this land is your land, this land is my land".
Tea was served, many smiles were shared, and once again we were immersed in the World community, not Canadian or Indian, but part of the World community.
Cam Grant
DWC Team Leader
February 2011: Working on the project site
The team worked at the project site until noon, helping farmers haul rock, sand, prepared concrete, and water from a nearby creek. They also participated in concrete mixing and clearing away the final pieces of rock and dirt from bedrock. The dam was blessed with offerings of incense for fire, rock, air and water to Lord Shiva. Tools were also blessed, and all workers were marked on the forehead with red ochre, and given pieces of ceremonial coconut and soft chunks of raw sugar, which tasted like light molasses.
The volunteers worked hard and carefully with their new friends of India, demonstrating their commitment toward the project in muscle power as well as financially. It was far harder to leave the project today than the yesterday, owing to the strengthening camaraderie and joyful song and laughter on both sides.
The volunteers then had lunch and were given an in-depth overview of the many water catchment dams and water velocity reduction rock structures, by the concept developer, and expert in water hydrology in catchment zones, Dr. Manot. After the overview, we finished lunch, and jumped into the van to see the results for ourselves. The first development we visited was completed in 2000 and all farming families in this area are now self-sufficient.
Cam Grant
DWC Team Leader
The volunteers worked hard and carefully with their new friends of India, demonstrating their commitment toward the project in muscle power as well as financially. It was far harder to leave the project today than the yesterday, owing to the strengthening camaraderie and joyful song and laughter on both sides.
The volunteers then had lunch and were given an in-depth overview of the many water catchment dams and water velocity reduction rock structures, by the concept developer, and expert in water hydrology in catchment zones, Dr. Manot. After the overview, we finished lunch, and jumped into the van to see the results for ourselves. The first development we visited was completed in 2000 and all farming families in this area are now self-sufficient.
Cam Grant
DWC Team Leader
February 2011: A Warm Welcoming to Bhinder
A daily routine is starting to set in with some things; volunteers each spend time reflecting on the day, writing their recollections into their journals, remembering the extraordinary events that occur every day.
This is the way in India...Heera said we would be meeting the community council members today, then we would visit the project work site. Quite unexpectedly, after winding along narrow roads, dodging cows, dogs, men and women carrying loads of sticks that were twice the size of them, or others, with graceful strides, carrying pots of water on their heads, we arrived at a small school far on the outskirts of Bhinder.
We could see women and children in the school yard, but after disembarking with our day packs, we were greeted with such warmth that we were at a loss for words. A young woman emerged from the crowd, carrying a metal tray, holding a simple urn of water and a small shallow dish. Within the dish was a small amount of wet, red paste - the material that would forever bond us to these people, India and humanity. Carefully, she looked into my eyes, dipped a finger into the paste, and made a long cool-feeling mark on my forehead, then touched a final pat of paste onto my hair. The school principal then placed a garland of orange chrysanthemums around my neck, grabbed my hand firmly, and welcomed me into their community, school, and so much more. The pair, watched by more than one hundred women, men and children, with equal care and thoughtfulness, approached each member of our group and welcomed them accordingly.
After removing our shoes, we sat on mats, while everyone who could fit on the school veranda around us, crossed their legs and sat around us. Heera made introductions, spoke at length about the partnership between these farming families, Developing World Connections and what the mutual and collective partnership of people cooperatively working together are capable of.
Several self-help group representatives stood, and each in turn, with palms pressed together in friendship and greeting of equals, soul to soul, told how this cooperative relationship has improved their own lives, their immediate family members, and the greater community. Elders were introduced and all spoke eloquently as hushed community members listened in silent reverence and admiration.
There was so much to be proud of all around, and as each volunteer rose to speak, our words of gratitude for being able to share a small part of our lives with each of them, seemed to come from some deep place that holds all humanity together, regardless of distance, culture and time. A small group of school girls stood and sang a beautiful song of friendship and greeting that has been used by their community for centuries.
A young boy then stood and sing an ancient, and almost melancholy song, with his clear melodic voice, that brought lumps to our throats and tears to our eyes.
After the formal ceremonies ended, and we pulled ourselves together, we were swarmed with warm greetings, smiling faces and all of this, using only the language of warmth, gestures, and eyes that spoke many things of the heart.
Our morning was not even over, and the red paste, that was now dry on our foreheads, reminded us that a profound experience had just occurred, and would take much time to sink in to where it was being called from that sacred place from within each of us. We bid the families farewell, climbed back into our vans, and with much fanfare, photographs and waving, we regretfully climbed back into our vans to visit the location that would be our work site.
The setting of the site is within an eroded furrow in the land, where monsoon rains flash down the slope, leaving only enough water behind to support low prickly scrub bushes and desert palms. Decades of overgrazing and lower than normal rainfalls have brought this area to the point where any form of agriculture is impossible. Then Heera showed us what community self-help groups can do when they work collectively to improve a 54 hectare parcel of adjacent land. The community enclosed the land with a 1.5 meter rock wall in 2002 and the change, and with small rock runoff-velocity reducing walls in some gullies, dramatically changed the landscape to where the indigenous grasses yielded a harvest of hand-scythed animal fodder in the first year, and planted trees are now growing for future resources.
We completed the day by helping the families dig a deep ditch across a shallow gully in preparation for the coming water runoff retention wall. Then, with wonderfully aching muscles, we returned to our home base to reflect on another amazing experience.
Cam Grant
DWC Team Leader
This is the way in India...Heera said we would be meeting the community council members today, then we would visit the project work site. Quite unexpectedly, after winding along narrow roads, dodging cows, dogs, men and women carrying loads of sticks that were twice the size of them, or others, with graceful strides, carrying pots of water on their heads, we arrived at a small school far on the outskirts of Bhinder.
We could see women and children in the school yard, but after disembarking with our day packs, we were greeted with such warmth that we were at a loss for words. A young woman emerged from the crowd, carrying a metal tray, holding a simple urn of water and a small shallow dish. Within the dish was a small amount of wet, red paste - the material that would forever bond us to these people, India and humanity. Carefully, she looked into my eyes, dipped a finger into the paste, and made a long cool-feeling mark on my forehead, then touched a final pat of paste onto my hair. The school principal then placed a garland of orange chrysanthemums around my neck, grabbed my hand firmly, and welcomed me into their community, school, and so much more. The pair, watched by more than one hundred women, men and children, with equal care and thoughtfulness, approached each member of our group and welcomed them accordingly.
After removing our shoes, we sat on mats, while everyone who could fit on the school veranda around us, crossed their legs and sat around us. Heera made introductions, spoke at length about the partnership between these farming families, Developing World Connections and what the mutual and collective partnership of people cooperatively working together are capable of.
Several self-help group representatives stood, and each in turn, with palms pressed together in friendship and greeting of equals, soul to soul, told how this cooperative relationship has improved their own lives, their immediate family members, and the greater community. Elders were introduced and all spoke eloquently as hushed community members listened in silent reverence and admiration.
There was so much to be proud of all around, and as each volunteer rose to speak, our words of gratitude for being able to share a small part of our lives with each of them, seemed to come from some deep place that holds all humanity together, regardless of distance, culture and time. A small group of school girls stood and sang a beautiful song of friendship and greeting that has been used by their community for centuries.
A young boy then stood and sing an ancient, and almost melancholy song, with his clear melodic voice, that brought lumps to our throats and tears to our eyes.
After the formal ceremonies ended, and we pulled ourselves together, we were swarmed with warm greetings, smiling faces and all of this, using only the language of warmth, gestures, and eyes that spoke many things of the heart.
Our morning was not even over, and the red paste, that was now dry on our foreheads, reminded us that a profound experience had just occurred, and would take much time to sink in to where it was being called from that sacred place from within each of us. We bid the families farewell, climbed back into our vans, and with much fanfare, photographs and waving, we regretfully climbed back into our vans to visit the location that would be our work site.
The setting of the site is within an eroded furrow in the land, where monsoon rains flash down the slope, leaving only enough water behind to support low prickly scrub bushes and desert palms. Decades of overgrazing and lower than normal rainfalls have brought this area to the point where any form of agriculture is impossible. Then Heera showed us what community self-help groups can do when they work collectively to improve a 54 hectare parcel of adjacent land. The community enclosed the land with a 1.5 meter rock wall in 2002 and the change, and with small rock runoff-velocity reducing walls in some gullies, dramatically changed the landscape to where the indigenous grasses yielded a harvest of hand-scythed animal fodder in the first year, and planted trees are now growing for future resources.
We completed the day by helping the families dig a deep ditch across a shallow gully in preparation for the coming water runoff retention wall. Then, with wonderfully aching muscles, we returned to our home base to reflect on another amazing experience.
Cam Grant
DWC Team Leader
February 2011: Saturday in Udaipur
The volunteers arrived in Udaipur and were met by Heera Lal Sharma, our host partner. We were deftly transported down busy highways where the center line is used for "aiming" your vehicle towards your destination, while oncoming traffic jostles for their own space, demonstrating time and time again, that the shortest distance between two points is a straight line.
We are immersed in the sounds of beeping horns, cows meandering ( they trump any other right-of-way), motorcycles buzzing, camels hauling mountains of hay, people chatting on the side of the road, the heady fragrances of refuse burning, small trucks caring seemingly impossible loads of wrapped "whatever"... You get the picture. Now we arrive in downtown Udaipur; but this Is not your typical downtown in Canada! It's writhing with people; more cows, holy people, business people, tourist people...yes, that's us, reeling amidst sensory overload.
Winding through streets without names, the width of a back alley in Canada. Think of the microscopic view of capillaries pumping red blood cells, and you will be with us. There never has been a "left or right" side of the street, we are all just "there" all of us, trying to reach our respective destinations...by the shortest path.
We arrive at the Jaiwana Haveli with Heera, disembark, bags deposited onto the sidewalk, "just leave them there, they are perfectly safe" says Yash, one of the owners. They are safe, we are in complete trust mode now. Heera gives us a quick overview of what is to come, understands our looks of exhaustion and amazement, and bids us farewell until tomorrow. Our tomorrow is still your today, because we have crossed the international date-line, and are 13 1/2 hours ahead of Vancouver, and another world away.
We visit the second largest castle in Rajasthan, on the tallest mountain in Udaipur, overlooking a lake that will take your breath away, guarded by the military festooned in brilliant head pieces, and built upon, layer upon layer, by a successive line of Mewarts since the 6th Century. And then there is the food....rice, dhals, curries, Roti, sandwiches deep fried along the busy streets of downtown....now I dont mean busy in the north American sense, I mean, crowded like the front of a stadium right after a concert, except that here, the concert is still playing; a cacophony of sensory overload, that finally...begins to sink into a new level of "normal", for it truly is Saturday in Udaipur and we have to pinch ourselves to believe that we are here, that it isn't a dream...or perhaps it is.
Cam Grant
DWC Team Leader
We are immersed in the sounds of beeping horns, cows meandering ( they trump any other right-of-way), motorcycles buzzing, camels hauling mountains of hay, people chatting on the side of the road, the heady fragrances of refuse burning, small trucks caring seemingly impossible loads of wrapped "whatever"... You get the picture. Now we arrive in downtown Udaipur; but this Is not your typical downtown in Canada! It's writhing with people; more cows, holy people, business people, tourist people...yes, that's us, reeling amidst sensory overload.
Winding through streets without names, the width of a back alley in Canada. Think of the microscopic view of capillaries pumping red blood cells, and you will be with us. There never has been a "left or right" side of the street, we are all just "there" all of us, trying to reach our respective destinations...by the shortest path.
We arrive at the Jaiwana Haveli with Heera, disembark, bags deposited onto the sidewalk, "just leave them there, they are perfectly safe" says Yash, one of the owners. They are safe, we are in complete trust mode now. Heera gives us a quick overview of what is to come, understands our looks of exhaustion and amazement, and bids us farewell until tomorrow. Our tomorrow is still your today, because we have crossed the international date-line, and are 13 1/2 hours ahead of Vancouver, and another world away.
We visit the second largest castle in Rajasthan, on the tallest mountain in Udaipur, overlooking a lake that will take your breath away, guarded by the military festooned in brilliant head pieces, and built upon, layer upon layer, by a successive line of Mewarts since the 6th Century. And then there is the food....rice, dhals, curries, Roti, sandwiches deep fried along the busy streets of downtown....now I dont mean busy in the north American sense, I mean, crowded like the front of a stadium right after a concert, except that here, the concert is still playing; a cacophony of sensory overload, that finally...begins to sink into a new level of "normal", for it truly is Saturday in Udaipur and we have to pinch ourselves to believe that we are here, that it isn't a dream...or perhaps it is.
Cam Grant
DWC Team Leader
Monday, February 28, 2011
February 2011: Our Arrival and first thoughts
Marcia and I went for a walk up the narrow streets in the early morning hours and were struck by the serenity of the city. Dogs wandered down the streets, now empty of cars, inhabited by individuals standing in silent meditation, street sweepers with long brooms and cows chewing on the vegetable matter tossed out onto the streets from the night before. Much earlier, at 4am and hourly afterward until first light, drums, gongs and voices joined in early morning prayers; a strangely comforting sound that permeated every part of the psyche. A sharp contrast to the night before, were celebrations at various parts of the lake sent beautiful fireworks into the night sky, beneath a full moon.
After our breakfast on the rooftop terrace, then bags taken to the sidewalk, Heera Lal Sharma and Dr. Paliwal met us at the Jawana Haveli and transported us to the Sahyog project field office where he showed us the various community based water conservation sites, both completed and planned. The farming community is a strong partner in all decisions regarding their welfare and are preparing for our arrival tomorrow.
The landscape is very arid, with much evidence of over-grazing by goats and sheep, but where there are fields enclosed by rock walls or fences of thorny cactus, there are small crops of wheat, barley, mustard seed, canola and poppies grown under government supervision for the harvesting of opium for drug companies to use as the main ingredient in pain reduction medication.
A more detailed overview of the economic and humanistic reasons for our host partner Sahyog's choice of this area for community development was given by Heera and Dr. Paliwal within the enclosed garden of the Rajmahal Bhinder, our home away from home for the next two weeks. Ample cups of masala chai were drank while they explained how mutual cooperation between farmers in food production, irrigation and development loans are slowly moving the farming families into self-sufficiency. Farming families that are participating in this project are now able to irrigate their crops and have potable water, rather than relying on 27 days of rain, then quickly tilling the soil by hand, borrowing money for seed, planting and harvesting before the land returns to sun baked concrete again as summer temperatures of 40 C return. The walls Sahyog is assisting farming families to build, supports rapid self-sufficiency by teaching conservation agricultural practices resulting in the ability to grow two or more crops in a season, and access to credit at 12%, rather than the exorbitant rates of 36-60% by the private money lenders.
We piled into a van at 7pm, wound our way through, had 8pm dinner at a large establishment in the middle of the arid landscape, that could only be described as a playing field of irrigated turf, with a large platform at one end and a narrow eating area on one side; we were the only guests beneath a dark star-filled sky, eating wonderful fragrant vegetarian curries, dhals, side dishes of spinach and potatoes, amply spiced with cumin and served with basmati rice and roti bread. It was nice to finally turn into bed at the Bhinder Rajmahal.
Cam Grant
DWC Team Leader
After our breakfast on the rooftop terrace, then bags taken to the sidewalk, Heera Lal Sharma and Dr. Paliwal met us at the Jawana Haveli and transported us to the Sahyog project field office where he showed us the various community based water conservation sites, both completed and planned. The farming community is a strong partner in all decisions regarding their welfare and are preparing for our arrival tomorrow.
The landscape is very arid, with much evidence of over-grazing by goats and sheep, but where there are fields enclosed by rock walls or fences of thorny cactus, there are small crops of wheat, barley, mustard seed, canola and poppies grown under government supervision for the harvesting of opium for drug companies to use as the main ingredient in pain reduction medication.
A more detailed overview of the economic and humanistic reasons for our host partner Sahyog's choice of this area for community development was given by Heera and Dr. Paliwal within the enclosed garden of the Rajmahal Bhinder, our home away from home for the next two weeks. Ample cups of masala chai were drank while they explained how mutual cooperation between farmers in food production, irrigation and development loans are slowly moving the farming families into self-sufficiency. Farming families that are participating in this project are now able to irrigate their crops and have potable water, rather than relying on 27 days of rain, then quickly tilling the soil by hand, borrowing money for seed, planting and harvesting before the land returns to sun baked concrete again as summer temperatures of 40 C return. The walls Sahyog is assisting farming families to build, supports rapid self-sufficiency by teaching conservation agricultural practices resulting in the ability to grow two or more crops in a season, and access to credit at 12%, rather than the exorbitant rates of 36-60% by the private money lenders.
We piled into a van at 7pm, wound our way through, had 8pm dinner at a large establishment in the middle of the arid landscape, that could only be described as a playing field of irrigated turf, with a large platform at one end and a narrow eating area on one side; we were the only guests beneath a dark star-filled sky, eating wonderful fragrant vegetarian curries, dhals, side dishes of spinach and potatoes, amply spiced with cumin and served with basmati rice and roti bread. It was nice to finally turn into bed at the Bhinder Rajmahal.
Cam Grant
DWC Team Leader
February 2011: Preparations for India
We will be working on a water retention project for two weeks (Feb 19 - Mar 5) near Udaipur, Rajasthan, with Developing World Connections and Sahyog Sansthan. We will then tour Rajasthan for one week Udaipur-Jodhpur-Jaisalmer-Jaipur-Agra-Delhi. Have fun following us on the project and our tour. Warm regards, Cam, Marcia and the rest of the India participant group.
Cam Grant
DWC Team Leader
Cam Grant
DWC Team Leader
Monday, June 8, 2009
June 1st: One week to go.
Internet in Bhinder has been sporadic at best these last couple of weeks which is the reason for the large gap in information.
The last weekend bore witness to one of the most historic moments of our trip thus far. We spent one bumpy night on a sleeping bus (passengers and drivers) to Agra and we were glad to make it there in one piece! The consensus is that Agra is a silly place and that the train is a much better way to travel than the bus. However, despite the loud honky drivers, expensive fares and dirty streets, the view of the Taj Mahal made this trip well worth our time. We visited the Taj at 6:30am in a torrential downpour which made for a unique and most needed experience, it was quite the sight. While tourists fled to the confines of the intricately carved marble domes for shelter some of our group preferred to frolic in some of the first rains of the monsoon. When inside the main chamber the echoed prayers and hushed voices bounce around the dome creating a soothing sound for listening ears walking on smooth aged marble floors. We also had the privilege of seeing the Taj from across the river at sunset where we all sat along the banks watching flowers float by and children splash in the murky waters.
The rest of the day was spent frequenting bazaars, getting lost, cooling off in malls and visiting the only McDonalds ( not a good idea for some in hind sight....the Chicken Maharaja didn't go over too well). One entertaining aspect of Agra is the species of wild monkey who roam the streets eating the power cables and tearing down brick walls. In the city with a large group and limited Hindi language skills our carefully picked auto-rickshaw drivers proved quintessentially useful. In addition, Charles L. eagerly flagged down goods carriers which are essentially small pickup trucks which were happy to cram us in the back and ferry us wherever we desired even through dodgy police roadblocks for the right price!
The journey home was a long journey indeed but time passed fast because of our ingenuity. On the 12 hour sleeper class train we put on an all night original train party complete with Bollywood classics blaring on speakers and matched dancing much to the delight of everyone in the 6 surrounding cars. Needless to say we met so many people who were more than happy to shove food down our throats, take our pictures and introduce us to their entire extended families ( some even invited us to their homes) . We arrived as one very sleepy team in Chittorgarh at 4am in the morning where we parked ourselves on the pavement outside, along with an army of sleeping locals until our fantastic driver Sundar rescued us and drove us to a hotel for breakfast and naps. Chittorgarh is home to the largest fort in Rajasthan and Asia built by the Mauryans in 7th century AD. We spent the morning climbing the crumbling walls of the remaining grand palaces and visiting the various marble temples within its all encompassing walls. It was well worth the visit and the sleepy arrival time to see such marvels.
With one last week of work we bid ya'll adieu.
Over and Out
Ciara and her trusty assistant Ben
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)