Wednesday, March 2, 2011

February 2011: Working on the project site

The team worked at the project site until noon, helping farmers haul rock, sand, prepared concrete, and water from a nearby creek. They also participated in concrete mixing and clearing away the final pieces of rock and dirt from bedrock. The dam was blessed with offerings of incense for fire, rock, air and water to Lord Shiva. Tools were also blessed, and all workers were marked on the forehead with red ochre, and given pieces of ceremonial coconut and soft chunks of raw sugar, which tasted like light molasses.

The volunteers worked hard and carefully with their new friends of India, demonstrating their commitment toward the project in muscle power as well as financially. It was far harder to leave the project today than the yesterday, owing to the strengthening camaraderie and joyful song and laughter on both sides.

The volunteers then had lunch and were given an in-depth overview of the many water catchment dams and water velocity reduction rock structures, by the concept developer, and expert in water hydrology in catchment zones, Dr. Manot. After the overview, we finished lunch, and jumped into the van to see the results for ourselves. The first development we visited was completed in 2000 and all farming families in this area are now self-sufficient.

Cam Grant
DWC Team Leader

February 2011: A Warm Welcoming to Bhinder

A daily routine is starting to set in with some things; volunteers each spend time reflecting on the day, writing their recollections into their journals, remembering the extraordinary events that occur every day.

This is the way in India...Heera said we would be meeting the community council members today, then we would visit the project work site. Quite unexpectedly, after winding along narrow roads, dodging cows, dogs, men and women carrying loads of sticks that were twice the size of them, or others, with graceful strides, carrying pots of water on their heads, we arrived at a small school far on the outskirts of Bhinder.

We could see women and children in the school yard, but after disembarking with our day packs, we were greeted with such warmth that we were at a loss for words. A young woman emerged from the crowd, carrying a metal tray, holding a simple urn of water and a small shallow dish. Within the dish was a small amount of wet, red paste - the material that would forever bond us to these people, India and humanity. Carefully, she looked into my eyes, dipped a finger into the paste, and made a long cool-feeling mark on my forehead, then touched a final pat of paste onto my hair. The school principal then placed a garland of orange chrysanthemums around my neck, grabbed my hand firmly, and welcomed me into their community, school, and so much more. The pair, watched by more than one hundred women, men and children, with equal care and thoughtfulness, approached each member of our group and welcomed them accordingly.

After removing our shoes, we sat on mats, while everyone who could fit on the school veranda around us, crossed their legs and sat around us. Heera made introductions, spoke at length about the partnership between these farming families, Developing World Connections and what the mutual and collective partnership of people cooperatively working together are capable of.
Several self-help group representatives stood, and each in turn, with palms pressed together in friendship and greeting of equals, soul to soul, told how this cooperative relationship has improved their own lives, their immediate family members, and the greater community. Elders were introduced and all spoke eloquently as hushed community members listened in silent reverence and admiration.
There was so much to be proud of all around, and as each volunteer rose to speak, our words of gratitude for being able to share a small part of our lives with each of them, seemed to come from some deep place that holds all humanity together, regardless of distance, culture and time. A small group of school girls stood and sang a beautiful song of friendship and greeting that has been used by their community for centuries.
A young boy then stood and sing an ancient, and almost melancholy song, with his clear melodic voice, that brought lumps to our throats and tears to our eyes.
After the formal ceremonies ended, and we pulled ourselves together, we were swarmed with warm greetings, smiling faces and all of this, using only the language of warmth, gestures, and eyes that spoke many things of the heart.

Our morning was not even over, and the red paste, that was now dry on our foreheads, reminded us that a profound experience had just occurred, and would take much time to sink in to where it was being called from that sacred place from within each of us. We bid the families farewell, climbed back into our vans, and with much fanfare, photographs and waving, we regretfully climbed back into our vans to visit the location that would be our work site.

The setting of the site is within an eroded furrow in the land, where monsoon rains flash down the slope, leaving only enough water behind to support low prickly scrub bushes and desert palms. Decades of overgrazing and lower than normal rainfalls have brought this area to the point where any form of agriculture is impossible. Then Heera showed us what community self-help groups can do when they work collectively to improve a 54 hectare parcel of adjacent land. The community enclosed the land with a 1.5 meter rock wall in 2002 and the change, and with small rock runoff-velocity reducing walls in some gullies, dramatically changed the landscape to where the indigenous grasses yielded a harvest of hand-scythed animal fodder in the first year, and planted trees are now growing for future resources.

We completed the day by helping the families dig a deep ditch across a shallow gully in preparation for the coming water runoff retention wall. Then, with wonderfully aching muscles, we returned to our home base to reflect on another amazing experience.

Cam Grant
DWC Team Leader

February 2011: Saturday in Udaipur

The volunteers arrived in Udaipur and were met by Heera Lal Sharma, our host partner. We were deftly transported down busy highways where the center line is used for "aiming" your vehicle towards your destination, while oncoming traffic jostles for their own space, demonstrating time and time again, that the shortest distance between two points is a straight line.

We are immersed in the sounds of beeping horns, cows meandering ( they trump any other right-of-way), motorcycles buzzing, camels hauling mountains of hay, people chatting on the side of the road, the heady fragrances of refuse burning, small trucks caring seemingly impossible loads of wrapped "whatever"... You get the picture. Now we arrive in downtown Udaipur; but this Is not your typical downtown in Canada! It's writhing with people; more cows, holy people, business people, tourist people...yes, that's us, reeling amidst sensory overload.

Winding through streets without names, the width of a back alley in Canada. Think of the microscopic view of capillaries pumping red blood cells, and you will be with us. There never has been a "left or right" side of the street, we are all just "there" all of us, trying to reach our respective destinations...by the shortest path.

We arrive at the Jaiwana Haveli with Heera, disembark, bags deposited onto the sidewalk, "just leave them there, they are perfectly safe" says Yash, one of the owners. They are safe, we are in complete trust mode now. Heera gives us a quick overview of what is to come, understands our looks of exhaustion and amazement, and bids us farewell until tomorrow. Our tomorrow is still your today, because we have crossed the international date-line, and are 13 1/2 hours ahead of Vancouver, and another world away.

We visit the second largest castle in Rajasthan, on the tallest mountain in Udaipur, overlooking a lake that will take your breath away, guarded by the military festooned in brilliant head pieces, and built upon, layer upon layer, by a successive line of Mewarts since the 6th Century. And then there is the food....rice, dhals, curries, Roti, sandwiches deep fried along the busy streets of downtown....now I dont mean busy in the north American sense, I mean, crowded like the front of a stadium right after a concert, except that here, the concert is still playing; a cacophony of sensory overload, that finally...begins to sink into a new level of "normal", for it truly is Saturday in Udaipur and we have to pinch ourselves to believe that we are here, that it isn't a dream...or perhaps it is.

Cam Grant
DWC Team Leader

Monday, February 28, 2011

February 2011: Our Arrival and first thoughts

Marcia and I went for a walk up the narrow streets in the early morning hours and were struck by the serenity of the city. Dogs wandered down the streets, now empty of cars, inhabited by individuals standing in silent meditation, street sweepers with long brooms and cows chewing on the vegetable matter tossed out onto the streets from the night before. Much earlier, at 4am and hourly afterward until first light, drums, gongs and voices joined in early morning prayers; a strangely comforting sound that permeated every part of the psyche. A sharp contrast to the night before, were celebrations at various parts of the lake sent beautiful fireworks into the night sky, beneath a full moon.

After our breakfast on the rooftop terrace, then bags taken to the sidewalk, Heera Lal Sharma and Dr. Paliwal met us at the Jawana Haveli and transported us to the Sahyog project field office where he showed us the various community based water conservation sites, both completed and planned. The farming community is a strong partner in all decisions regarding their welfare and are preparing for our arrival tomorrow.

The landscape is very arid, with much evidence of over-grazing by goats and sheep, but where there are fields enclosed by rock walls or fences of thorny cactus, there are small crops of wheat, barley, mustard seed, canola and poppies grown under government supervision for the harvesting of opium for drug companies to use as the main ingredient in pain reduction medication.
A more detailed overview of the economic and humanistic reasons for our host partner Sahyog's choice of this area for community development was given by Heera and Dr. Paliwal within the enclosed garden of the Rajmahal Bhinder, our home away from home for the next two weeks. Ample cups of masala chai were drank while they explained how mutual cooperation between farmers in food production, irrigation and development loans are slowly moving the farming families into self-sufficiency. Farming families that are participating in this project are now able to irrigate their crops and have potable water, rather than relying on 27 days of rain, then quickly tilling the soil by hand, borrowing money for seed, planting and harvesting before the land returns to sun baked concrete again as summer temperatures of 40 C return. The walls Sahyog is assisting farming families to build, supports rapid self-sufficiency by teaching conservation agricultural practices resulting in the ability to grow two or more crops in a season, and access to credit at 12%, rather than the exorbitant rates of 36-60% by the private money lenders.

We piled into a van at 7pm, wound our way through, had 8pm dinner at a large establishment in the middle of the arid landscape, that could only be described as a playing field of irrigated turf, with a large platform at one end and a narrow eating area on one side; we were the only guests beneath a dark star-filled sky, eating wonderful fragrant vegetarian curries, dhals, side dishes of spinach and potatoes, amply spiced with cumin and served with basmati rice and roti bread. It was nice to finally turn into bed at the Bhinder Rajmahal.

Cam Grant
DWC Team Leader

February 2011: Preparations for India

We will be working on a water retention project for two weeks (Feb 19 - Mar 5) near Udaipur, Rajasthan, with Developing World Connections and Sahyog Sansthan. We will then tour Rajasthan for one week Udaipur-Jodhpur-Jaisalmer-Jaipur-Agra-Delhi. Have fun following us on the project and our tour. Warm regards, Cam, Marcia and the rest of the India participant group.

Cam Grant
DWC Team Leader

Monday, June 8, 2009

June 1st: One week to go.

Internet in Bhinder has been sporadic at best these last couple of weeks which is the reason for the large gap in information.

The last weekend bore witness to one of the most historic moments of our trip thus far. We spent one bumpy night on a sleeping bus (passengers and drivers) to Agra and we were glad to make it there in one piece! The consensus is that Agra is a silly place and that the train is a much better way to travel than the bus. However, despite the loud honky drivers, expensive fares and dirty streets, the view of the Taj Mahal made this trip well worth our time. We visited the Taj at 6:30am in a torrential downpour which made for a unique and most needed experience, it was quite the sight. While tourists fled to the confines of the intricately carved marble domes for shelter some of our group preferred to frolic in some of the first rains of the monsoon. When inside the main chamber the echoed prayers and hushed voices bounce around the dome creating a soothing sound for listening ears walking on smooth aged marble floors. We also had the privilege of seeing the Taj from across the river at sunset where we all sat along the banks watching flowers float by and children splash in the murky waters.

The rest of the day was spent frequenting bazaars, getting lost, cooling off in malls and visiting the only McDonalds ( not a good idea for some in hind sight....the Chicken Maharaja didn't go over too well). One entertaining aspect of Agra is the species of wild monkey who roam the streets eating the power cables and tearing down brick walls. In the city with a large group and limited Hindi language skills our carefully picked auto-rickshaw drivers proved quintessentially useful. In addition, Charles L. eagerly flagged down goods carriers which are essentially small pickup trucks which were happy to cram us in the back and ferry us wherever we desired even through dodgy police roadblocks for the right price!

The journey home was a long journey indeed but time passed fast because of our ingenuity. On the 12 hour sleeper class train we put on an all night original train party complete with Bollywood classics blaring on speakers and matched dancing much to the delight of everyone in the 6 surrounding cars. Needless to say we met so many people who were more than happy to shove food down our throats, take our pictures and introduce us to their entire extended families ( some even invited us to their homes) . We arrived as one very sleepy team in Chittorgarh at 4am in the morning where we parked ourselves on the pavement outside, along with an army of sleeping locals until our fantastic driver Sundar rescued us and drove us to a hotel for breakfast and naps. Chittorgarh is home to the largest fort in Rajasthan and Asia built by the Mauryans in 7th century AD. We spent the morning climbing the crumbling walls of the remaining grand palaces and visiting the various marble temples within its all encompassing walls. It was well worth the visit and the sleepy arrival time to see such marvels.

With one last week of work we bid ya'll adieu.
Over and Out
Ciara and her trusty assistant Ben

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

May 20: Settled into a daily routine.


Nameste,

This week in Bhinder the temperature has been around 40-43 degrees during the day! We generally get up for a 6 am breakfast so we can work during the morning and leave during the heat of the day for a siesta. People have really settled in here and on any given day someone is out and around town playing cricket, or watching cricket, exchanging foreign tongues or chasing children.

Despite the temperature being so hot, the work has been surprisingly productive and already quite a large amount of walls have been built. On the larger site where there are 6 of our team working they have almost completed a wall around the edge of a farm plot of about 100 or more meters. We still spend out days moving rocks and soil but I think everyone is enjoying the work. Always surrounded by children and various farm animals, the work sites are very social places and lasting relationships are being formed between many. People communicate with bright eyes, excited hand gestures and the occasional Hindi which everyone is picking up.

On Monday, there was a death of an elder at the village so we did not go to work. Instead we visited some of the successful projects of our host partner and learnt about the improvements they have made in the farmland and lives of the villages. We were also able to visit the completed water harvesting structure of the last DWC team, although there is no running water to see it at full capacity. Some of our team members are planning to return to the site after the monsoons in August to see the project in action. It was very encouraging to see the vast differences that projects similar to our own have made while also seeing the plans in place to tackle climate change in the area. When we returned to work we payed our respect the family which was a very important experience.

Lunch is ready, curry potatoes and lady fingers!

With love from the palace,
Ciara and Stuart

May 17: City of Udaipur - the dry Venice of India


Namaste,

The team spent the weekend in Udaipur exploring the city and taking some much needed relaxation. We sat on the rooftop restaurant enjoying some cold beer and watching the evening colours transpire bringing choruses of bats and a cool breeze. The city at night is all lit up, illuminating the white washed buildings and carefully carved marble temples. Everyone spent time in the busy tourist and local markets and visiting the city palace. People are attracted to this beautiful sight because it is surrounded by a large lake, unfortunately summer time in Rajasthan brings drought and the lake is currently dried up, enabling you to walk right up to the palace doors!

On the drive to Udaipur we took a detour and visited Jaisamand lake. Built in 1685 it is the second largest artificial lake in Asia covering 36 sqkm. Even though we are coming from a background with large pristine alpine lakes we were all surprised and taken aback by the vast beauty. On top of two hills lay old palaces adorned with carved elephants. The lake provides a large part of irrigation and life style for a magnitude of villages that live around the outskirts and surrounding land.

Over the course of the last week about half of our team got sick at different times because of the constant sun or perhaps the food ( some call it Dehli Belly....!). Needless to say there have been some sore tummies but everyone is in full recovery and ready to go back to work for the coming week. After the busy city and sweaty jeep ride back to Bhinder, everyone was relieved to be back 'home', we really do love it here at the palace.

With love from two very sweaty team leaders,
Ciara and Stuart

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Blessed and welcomed: Meeting the Villagers on the Project

May 13, 2009

Today was the first work day on the project site. The village we are working in is about a 15 minute drive outside the town of Bhinder. There are three sites that we are split up working at, all reasonably close and are various sizes. We are currently working on the first stage of building a retaining wall surrounding the edges of fields which will prevent soil erosion. This erosion is causing the water to run through the ditches causes the well water to become filled with silt.

When we arrived we were greeted with a welcome meeting where all members involved, DWC volunteers and villagers alike, were given red Bindis and chai to bless the new beginning. I think that everyone is overwhelmed by the kindness of the villagers and the shy smiles of all the beautiful children. Today, we were moving rocks and sand from various areas while a local mason built the walls around the fields. The females of our group all learnt to carry rocks on their heads with the guidance of the local women and the help of an Indoni ( a pillow - ring wrapped in fabric placed on top of the head). We have two more days of work left this week before we spend an entire weekend in Udaipur.

With love from a palace in the desert,
Team Leaders
Ciara and Stuart

Arrival in India: Delhi, Mt. Abu and Bhinder

May 12, 2009

Namaste,
We arrived safe here to the Rajmahal Bhinder Palace two nights ago and completed our first on the project today. After a long couple of flights we arrived in Delhi at 12.30 am with no problems or hassles with customs or our luggage. We spent the next day exploring the hectic city of Dehli with the help of Developing World Connections friend Paul Singh, who showed us the Red Fort and some of the local markets. We then took an 12 hour overnight train to Udaipur, which turned out to be such a fantastic experience. It was so refreshing to watch the lights and villages fly by from the open doors of the train with the cool night air helping us forget the heat and the grime of a day navigating Dehli.

Awoken to the sounds and smells of fresh chai we then met Heera ( the project supervisor) for a quick visit before we boarded another cramped public bus to Mt. Abu. Situated in the middle of a desert, the town of Mt. Abu attracts many international and domestic tourists for the cooler climate and stunning views of the surrounding landscapes. The group spend the few days here riding horses and motorcycles, seeing the various viewpoints, sunsets and magnificent Jain temples in the area. The ride back to Udaipur was interesting to say the least: a bus full of overexcited families all talking in animated voices pummeling down mountain roads with a cascading horn that was blown at every turn. The outcome was complete chaos, people getting sick out windows and crawling all over the floor, some of our very own joined in but everyone lived to tell the tale. We then travelled to the town of Bhinder by bus where we met all the project coordinators and settled into our new home at the palace.

Erected 500 years ago, the palace has been passed down through the generations and is in beautiful condition complete with colourful murals, steep staircases and resident bats! It is safe to say that everyone is in love with this place and feel at home amoung the spicy food, sweaty foreheads and stunning terraces.